Popular Jewelry of the 19th Century: 1850 to 1900

What do Victorian Revival, Art Nouveau, or Arts and Crafts mean in jewelry design?  Where did these styles come from?  This post is a very quick dance through the main jewelry styles from 1850-1900. Hopefully it will also put into context the revival styles in 20th century jewelry as well.

The second half of the 19th century was marked by many "revival" styles.  In a reaction to rapid urbanization, the spread of manufacturing and mechanization and as scientific progress began to undermine the bedrock of culturally "known truths," fashion, art and design turned back to what were thought of as simpler, more solid times. There are so many "revival" styles that it seems an "anywhere but here" mentality dominated.

Gothic Revival

Gothic Revival was the main revival movement.  Beginning in the 1830s it looked to the medieval period as a time of purity and a simpler lifestyle --motifs popular from the 12th to 16th centuries formed the base of the movement.  A definitive emphasis on nature and a turning away from industrialization, was very important. Gothic Revival produced a wealth of other revival movements -- Renaissance Revival, Rococo Revival, Romanticism in America, and many others.

Gothic Revival had a profound impact on art, architecture and of course, jewelry. Turning to nature and towards an imagined romanticism, natural motifs were seen in all aspects of Gothic design. Other prominent motifs were heraldic shields, medieval lettering and crosses.  Chimeras and other mythical creatures were also part of Gothic design.

19th Century Gothic Revival Jewelry

19th Century Gothic Revival Pendant

19th Century Gothic Revival Cuff

Arts and Crafts Movement

The Arts and Crafts Movement grew out of Gothic Revival and was a fierce reaction against mass commercialism. The motifs are very similar to Gothic Revival -- looking to nature as the true source for creativity.  An emphasis on hand made items was at the heart of Arts and Crafts, which was associated with everything from architecture to textiles and jewelry.  Some of the jewelry was handmade. Louis Comfort Tiffany was a leading light in the Arts and Crafts Movement. His legacy lives on in bright turquoise gift boxes and exquisite jewelry. And a certain movie with the the lovely Audrey Hepburn!

19th Century Tiffany Jewelry Set

Arts and Crafts Pendant

Arhtur Gaskin Arts and Crafts Brooch

Mourning Jewelry

Queen Victoria was left in a permanent state of mourning after Prince Albert's untimely death -- out of this tragic situation rose up an entire industry of mourning jewelry.  Mass production made the jewelry affordable to the newly emergent middle class. It was extremely popular. Sentimental jewelry was very closely associated with mourning jewelry.  Although primarily a British form of jewelry, it did become popular in other countries.

Gold Filled Mourning Bar Brooch, Joys Shop, Etsy

Gold Victorian Mourning Locket, Fiona Kenny Antiques, Etsy

Victorian Mourning Brooch from Victorian Sentiments, Etsy

Mixed with elements from Gothic Revival, major motifs in mourning jewelry were heavy black enamel, black and jet (whitby,which is a type of coal), lockets and hairwork jewelry. Necklaces and bracelets were woven out of human hair, though not necessarily from the deceased. Human hair was actually imported to Britain for use in making jewelry! Carved cameos and silhouettes were also popular as a way to remember a loved one, either living or deceased.

Victorian Mourning Locket

Hair Brooch, A Magnificent Mess, Etsy

Pieces of jewelry became bigger in order to accommodate Victorian fashions and the rise of photography as an important new technology. Mourning and sentimental jewelry like lockets had to be big enough to hold photographs. Large bracelets, pendants and such were popular. Mourning became an elaborate ritual during the Victorian period; broken into phases of months and years, certain fashions and jewelry were worn during each phase of mourning.

Art Nouveau

Towards the end of the century, the Art Nouveau Movement began.  The design elements grew out of Arts and Crafts, but it was a forward looking design movement -- tired of Victorian stuffiness and endless revivalism it looked to the future and embraced commercialism as a vehicle for design.  Main themes were nature, twining botanics, peacocks, moths, dragonflies. Women set free from corsets with long tendrils and sensuous curves were an obvious reaction against the confines of Victorian sensibilities. Art Nouveau advertising posters are another sign of the movement's embrace of the new commercialism.  Rene' Lalique is one of the best known Art Nouveau jewelry designers of the late 19th century.  The Art Nouveau design movement is known as Jugendstil in Scandinavian countries.

Benjamin Bardon Dragonfly circa 1900

19th Century Georges Fouquet Pendant

Art Nouveau Brooch, Fifis Finds, Etsy

Art Nouveau Brooch, Morning Glorious, Etsy

This article has just scratched the surface of the fascinating trends in 19th century jewelry. Please visit the references listed below if you wish to read further about the various styles and the play of history, culture and jewelry fashions.

References:  Collector's Weekly: Antique Mourning Jewelry
                        The Art of Mourning: Gothic Revival in Culture and Jewellry, Part 2
                       The Art of Mourning: Gothic Revival in Culture and Jewellry, Part 3
                       The Art Story.org; Art Nouveau Synopsis
                        Victoria and Albert Museum:Style Guide; Gothic Revival

Styles Defined

We thought a good way to start the year would be to take a closer look at some of the "styles defined" article that Gayla posted on the tip of the day thread.  It was a pretty extensive list so we aren't going to be able to take a deeper dive into all the styles listed, but let's take another look at four important styles Art Deco, Nautical, Hollywood Regency, and Mod.  

Art Deco

Art Deco was an influential visual arts design style that first appeared in France after World War I.  ** " (French: L'Exposition internationale des arts décoratifs et industriels modernes) was a World's fair held in Paris, France, from April to October 1925. The term "Art Deco" was derived by shortening the words Arts Décoratifs, in the title of this exposition."  Art Deco took off internationally in the 1920s-1940s before it's popularity waned after World War II.  This style is recognizable by the use of geometric designs, straight lines, and stylized figures.  It was an eclectic style that often combined traditional crafts motifs with Machine Age imagery and materials.  The style is often characterized by the use of rich colors, bold geometric shapes, and lavish ornamentation.  Since Art Deco emerged in the period between World Wars it was impacted by the rapid industrialization that was transforming Euporean culture.  In fact many feel one of it's major attributes is an embracing of technology, distinguishing Deco from the organic motifs favored by it's predecessor - Art Nouveau. 

Additionally, women's lives changed dramatically during the early 20th Century.  During WWI millions
of women set off to work to fill the positions left by men fighting in the war.  A new spirit of freedom and
liberation was taking over and out went the traditional, meek woman and came a strong new generation
of women, unafraid to wear either short hair and/or shorter skirts.

Art Deco style jewelry can be identified by streamlined, angular, geometric shapes.Squares, triangles, rectangles, hexagons and zigzag shapes were used.  Common Art Deco engagement ring shapes were Princess (square), Emerald (rectangle) and Baguette (long rectangle). 

Art Deco by vintageimagine featuring crystal bathroom accessories

Nautical

The earliest concept of Nautical style first emerged after 1858 with the Act of France declaring a part of the French Navy's standard issue  of navy and white striped shirts, (making it easier to spot sailors who fell overboard).  That simple design began the world's love affair with this style.  After all there is a romantic image of life on the sea reflected in a navy jacket with brass buttons or a crisp sailors uniform; that harkens the unpredictable nature of the sea.  More than a century later the Nautical style has become an ageless trend.

The look is classic ("preppy at sea") with traditional shapes and bold colors of black, navy, white, and red.  Nautical style is important in fashion, as well as, home decor.  You'll see anything that speaks of yachting, anchors, ropes,grommets, etc.  Nautical is never really out of style due to the classic colors and shapes - it was however, a hugetrend in the 1980s & 1990s.  Have fun with this bright clean style pair classic white pants with a vintage striped sweater or vintage bucket hat.

Nautical by vintageimagine featuring nautical accent pillows

Hollywood Regency

Most often thought of as a decorating style emerging in the West Coast in the 1930s ~currently making a modern comeback.  In the 1930s renown designers from Hollywood's Golden Age, like William Haines and Dorothy Draper encouraged West Coast film luminaries to decorate their home with glitz and glamour this new style was created.  There is no denying that high Hollywood style is back in fashion.   

Think wonderful fabrics (rich velvet or silk), tasteful use of fringe, and of course crystals or diamonds!  Have fun this is a design style that is meant to be an eclectic mix of styles with an overarching theme of luxury.

Hollywood Regency by vintageimagine featuring christmas serveware

"Mod" Style

Mod is a culture and fashion style based on the Modernism culture of the late 1950s to the late 1960s.  The fashion originally came from the streets of London.  The origin of the "Mod" style was focused on music & fashion, this subculture was a small group of London based stylish young men in the late 1950s who were termed "modernists" becaused they listened to modern jazz.  The term Mod was first used to define 1960s British youth subculture that was revived in later decades and continues today on a smaller scale.  Style characteristics include; unisex styles, sharp graphics/black & white, bold prints, mini skirts, geometric patterns, and chunky shoes.

Mod Style by vintageimagine featuring modern throw pillows

* * wikipedia 

Written by Wendy Podell